Frame Rules:

There are two key frame measurements: center-to-center and flat length or straight line . Calculate the center-to-center measurement by taking the width (outer dimension) of your raft and subtracting the diameter of one tube. For flat length or straight line, measure lengthgwise along the relatively flat surface of a tube; this measurement will indicate how long your frame can be.

1. Never go beyond the Straight line of the boat, it diminishes the rafts ability to perform correctly. Generally the wear patches are longer than the Straight line.
2. Your frame should be as wide or wider than your boat center-to-center measurement. Wider is never a problem but narrower could cause the frame to slide into the inside of the boat.
3. Tube size: Take 2 yard sticks place one across the top of the raft and one perpendicular to it, this will determine the tube size.
4. Determine the center-to-center measurement by measuring the width of your boat and subtracting the diameter of one main tube (C = W - D) (Center = raft Width - tube Diameter). If the width a of NRS frame does not match your numbers exactly, be sure to order a frame with a width slightly wider than your center-to-center measurement. All others are custom made for your raft.
5. Know the inside dimensions of your boat. Dry Boxes and Coolers cannot exceed the inside dimension.
6. Allow for the curvature in the bow and stern. If your tube dimishes up to the bow or stern you have a diminishing tube (do not exceed the straight line). They carry much less weight than a round boat.
7. Cooler manufactures continually change the sizes and product lines. It is best to allow for the largest cooler. Smaller will always fit.

How do I choose a frame to fit my needs? Answer these questions.

1. How many people do you need to carry?
2. How much gear do you need to load?
3. How many days are your trips?
4. What kind of water are you running?
5. How am I going to transport the raft and frame?
6. What is your body size?
7. Is anyone other than yourself going to row the boat.?

You want the center of gravity to be low in the raft, all the heavy items need to low in the boat. Gear stacked up on the tubes can be a hazard and make you top heavy. Weight forward, is the ideal situation. Loading the boat to heavy will slow you down, and make tight mavering slower and harder.

Take-apart frames are handy for portability, and having one may make the difference between getting your frame to a fly-in destination, most planes can hold rails no longer than 72". Check with your bush pilot to get the proper legenth. Aluminum frames are the most adjustable for oarlock, foot bar, and seat positions for different size people, and the overnighter frames can be ordered in varying sizes for different widths of coolers and gear boxes .Steel frames are not really adjustable though you can specify any cooler or dry box size you wish as long as combined measurement does not exceed the straight line of the raft. There are hundreds of variations and configurations of frames -----below are examples that work.

Aluminum Break-down frame with 2 dry boxes and cooler. Rower in the rear. This is the most common configurationof frames. There are many options that can be added to this versatile frame.

Modular Aluminum Break-down frame outfitter model.
A genuine workhorse of a frame. Lets you haul two large coolers or dry boxes. More options and configurations are available for this Aluminum raft frame.

Steel Frame
This is by far the simplest and best steel raft frame money can buy. Can be ordered in either break-down of one piece models. It does not get any better than the Cambridge Salmon River Frame.

Outfitter expidition Raft frame.
The Recretec Basic Steel rowing frame when tricked out with, a cooler and dry box make this a dynamic go-anywhere raft frame.

Raft and Boat Frame Rafting Supplies and gear.

These are just a few of our most popular models, we have many more options. Call us at 503-788-3077 or use our contact page with questions.