Inflating & Deflating Rafts, Boats, Catarafts, Kayaks

A properly inflated raft simply performs better on the river. To open all the valves and work your way around the boat in a clockwise or counter clockwise direction. Fill each chamber evenly until it takes shape, making sure to go in one direction. Next go around the boat in the opposite direction bringing each chamber to pressure. The tubes should be filled to a maximum of 2.5 psi (pounds per square inch).

After the main chambers are inflated, inflate the thwarts until each thwart takes shape. Then top off until firm (about 2 - 2.5 psi). If the raft floor is self-bailing, inflate the floor until the pressure relief valve exhausts a small amount of air. No more pressure than a maximum of 2.5 psi is the recommended inflation pressure for floors. A properly inflated boat should still "give" just a bit with hard hand pressure. It you are using a electric pump off a car battery it will not fill the raft to full pressure. You need to use a hand pump. River Connection recommends you carry a hand pump to adapt to the pressure changes, both on the river or traveling. More rafts are damaged in transportation than on the river. Always run your self-bailing floor flat when transporting there is less chance for damage.

As the air temperature changes, the pressure in the raft chambers should be adjusted. Changes in the temperature frequently results in raft over inflation. Cold morning temperatures reduce the boat pressure, altitude increases the pressure. The boater adds additional air after launching and the boat is in the water. For accuracy use a pressure gauge. Later, as the weather warms up, if the raft becomes rock hard, let a little air out. Never leave your raft beached without checking the pressure. This often occurs after lunch breaks when the boat is sitting in the hot sun. You need to let some air out because this over pressurization can lead to significant problems.

The high-quality rafts of today may take substantially higher pressures than suggested by the manufacturer without showing any short-term effects. However, over inflation does strain the seams especially on Hypalon and can cause problems later in the life of the raft. The greatest danger of over inflation is explosive decompression. If the over inflated raft strikes a sharp object with enough force to puncture the material, the tube may explode. No manufacture will cover warranty due explosive decompression. It is very easy to tell this has happened, and may be more expensive to repair.

To properly deflate a boat, open the valves on the thwarts, floor, and the last chamber that was filled before topping off. This will take the pressure off of all chambers at once. Continue around the boat opening the remaining valves.

Remember to replace the valve caps, so they do not get broken.
Spare Parts for Pumps»»

Inflating & Deflating Inflatable Kayaks

To properly inflate a IK (Inflatable Kayak), inflate both main tubes until they take shape in the same direction. Then top off until firm, to a maximum of 2.5 psi. Because of the small tube size, slight over inflation of the tubes is acceptable to increase performance. Inflate the floor until the pressure relief valve exhausts a small amount of air. Finally, inflate the thwarts, again to a maximum of 2.5 psi.

To properly deflate an IK, just open all the valves. Be sure to store your inflatable in a a tarp or bag. When transporting inflated with other boats, we find it easier to turn the IK upside down. It will ride easier.

Remember to replace the valve caps, so they do not get broken.

Inflating & Deflating Catarafts

To properly inflate a Cataraft, open all valves, inflate the center chamber of each tube until it takes shape. Then inflate the Cataraft tube to a maximum of 2.5 psi. Last, fill center chamber to 2.5 psi. The important thing here is to make the bulk heads go the same way. Ever wonder why your cat is bit squirrely? One bulk head may be going a different direction than the other.

To properly deflate, lock open the center chamber valve of each tube. If your Cataraft has 2 chambers, open the one you filled last. This will allow pressure to be released from all chambers at once. Open the remaining valve. This will also keep the bulk heads going the same way for next time. Repeat do the same procedure every time and it will ensure long life to your bulk heads.

Transporting

When transporting, take all precautions to keep water out of the tubes. If you are transporting your boat inflated, bleed off air pressure so the boat compresses with hand pressure. Remember the caution about temperature changes affecting pressure, especially in direct sunlight. Boaters sometimes do not think about the effects of higher altitude on pressure. Before driving into higher altitudes, reduce pressure, and check it periodically. Whether transporting your boat inflated or deflated, ensure all valve caps are in place. Check out the load for any articles which could rub, abrade, or puncture the Inflatable boats fabric. Remember that any sand or other debris left in the boat could cause wear on the fabric during transport, especially if the boat is deflated. A Boat Bag or large tarp is a great way to keep debris out of your inflatable during transportation. Be sure to run your self-bailing floor flat when transporting.
Remember to replace the valve caps, so they do not get broken.

Valves

Most all height quality Boat manufactures since 2000 use the new Leafield C-7 Valve. Rafts built between 1994 and 1999 have the Leafield B-7, AD2, A7, Hulkey Roberts, Military Valve. Most Rafts and Catarafts built after, have the Leafield C-7 valve. We feel that these valves are the highest quality and most functional on the market. Early Riken, Sun Runner, Hyside all use Military Valve. Most Catarafts before 2000 use Hulkey Roberts or Military valves. Some valves are no longer available.

Call the Raft Doctor to find the kind of valve you have 503-788-3077. The Raft Doctor is our repair division and is always willing to help.

Opening and Closing Valves

To open a valve, Leafield, Hulkey Roberts, summit, unscrew the plastic cover, then press down the spring loaded stem, called a poppet, inside the valve and turn counterclockwise. The valve will lock in the open position. To close the valve, push down on the poppet and turn clockwise. The stem will poppet into the closed position. Finally, screw the plastic cap back on to create an air and watertight seal. You can top off your boat even if the poppet is in the lock position. Securing the cap seals the valve, so no air can leak out.

Pressure Relief Valve (PR Valve)

Some Rafts with inflatable floors (self-bailing) have a second valve called a pressure relief valve (PR Valve). This valve is a very important part of the floor system. Some inflatable floors have I-beams, which produce the ridges you see in the floor. If the floor is inflated to a pressure higher than 2.5 psi, the life of your boat could be shortened. To solve this problem, install PR Valve, which release any excess pressure above 2.5 psi. Maravia has a drop stitch floor and a PR valve cannot be used.

Cleaning Your Valves

If your valves are not airtight, dirt or sand may have worked into the valve and causing the o-ring not to seal. Cleaning the valve should solve this problem. First deflate the tube of the valve to be cleaned. Dip a cotton-tipped swab into 303 Protectant and wipe the inside of the valve. The rubber plunger in the bottom of the valve is the most important part of the valve to clean. After thoroughly cleaning the valve, re-inflate the tube. You may have to remove the valve from the raft to fully clean. Use the valve wrench supplied in the boat repair kit to tighten the valve assembly on the tube. To ensure air retention, occasionally test and tighten the valve with your wrench if it loosens from use. With travel and the bouncing on the road the valves tend to come loose, check them ocacassioaly. If you are losing air pressure over overnight, the first place to check for a leak is the valve, it may just need to be tightened.

Cleaning Pressure Relief Valves (PR Valve)

Because of its position in the boat, the PRV tends to need cleaning more often than fill valves. The PR Valve needs to be cleaned when the floor does not stay at inflated pressure for a long period of time. The PR Valve can easily be cleaned. With the floor inflated, loosen the PRV with your valve wrench until a small volume of air begins to hiss out. Then fully deflate the floor by opening the floor fill valve. Now unscrew the PRV from the floor. Be sure not to lose the white plastic nut inside the floor. Rinse the inside of the PR Valve with clean water. Blowing through the PRV will aid cleaning. Hand screw the PR Valve into place, then re-inflate the floor and tighten the PR Valve with your valve wrench. If the PRV still does not hold air pressure, fit the rubber stopper in the repair kit over the PRV to stop it from leaking. Until you can replace the PR Valve, you will have to monitor the pressure in the floor to make sure it does not over inflate.

Poppet Cleaning and Replacement for B-7 Fill Valve

If a fill valve will still not hold air after the cleaning recommended above, you need to clean the poppet assembly. The poppet includes the white plastic stem, a spring, and the rubber plunger at the base of the stem. With the tube inflated, loosen the valve, then deflate the tube. After deflating the tube, unscrew the valve completely. Be sure not to lose the valve inside the tube. Push in the valve plunger so it is in the open position. Flip the valve upside down so the rubber plunger is facing up towards the hole. Unscrew the rubber plug Note: this will release the valve so the poppet stem and spring do not eject into the tube. If the plug will not unscrew by hand, use a pair of pliers. Now invert the valve and remove the poppet stem and spring. Clean these parts with a suitable cleaning solvent - 303 Protectant or denatured alcohol. Clean any sand or dirt from the valve to ensure a clean seat for the rubber plug. Insert the cleaned stem and spring into the valve casing and twist the valve into the open position. Invert the valve and screw the rubber plug onto the stem. Twist the valve into the closed position, invert the valve again, and position it in the valve hole. Screw on the top half of the valve hand tight. Inflate the tube and tighten the valve with your valve wrench.

Poppet Cleaning and Replacement for C-7 Valves

The C-7 valve poppet includes a gray plastic stem, a spring, and the rubber plunger at the base of the stem. With the tube inflated, loosen the valve, then deflate the tube. After deflating the tube, unscrew the valve completely. Be sure not to lose the gray plastic base inside the tube. The C-7 poppet assembly part of the valve is removable from the tube. If the general cleaning procedure with 303 is not effective, you can remove the poppet assembly. Pull of the black rubber plug from the valve stem. Twist the stem into the closed position. This will cause the stem and spring to fall out. Clean any dirt or sand from the valve, including the gray plastic nut inside the tube, to ensure a clean seat for the new rubber plunger. Replace the stem and spring into the valve housing and twist into the open position. Now replace the rubber plug on the stem. Screw the valve back into the gray base inside the tube, hand tight. Inflate the tube and tighten the valve with your valve wrench.

If all of this fails call the Raft Doctor 503-788-3077.

Maintenance Cleaning

Avoiding or eliminating moisture inside boat tubes and the floor is the owner\'s responsibility. Repairs on the river might unavoidably leave some moisture in tubes. Leaving valves open in wet weather can allow moisture to accumulate in tubes and the floor. Leaving any moisture in tubes for extended periods can cause mildew and deterioration. To prevent any accumulation of moisture or mildew, open the chamber\'s valve and dry by blowing air into the tube with a vacuum or pump. Exchange air several times to drive moisture out. If possible, remove the valve and insert the air hose through the valve hole. We use a shop Vac. Let air flow continually for several hours (very wet on the inside 48 hours) until all moisture is gone. Proper care and maintenance improves the boat\'s appearance and longevity. Clean and inspect the boat after each use. River Connection recommends 303 Protectant for long-term boat care. Coating your boat with 303 periodically will increase the longevity of the fabric.

Be sure when pumping the floor to take about 5 strokes before inserting the pump home into the valve. This will blow out any excess water that might be lurking around. This is the single most important care step you can do.

To repair minor holes ( pin Holes ) Top Paint for cosmetics and Inflatable boat sealant on the inside. Will surly stop the leaks.

More Questions Call The Raft Doctor 503-788-3077 or use our Contacts page.